Coastal Strolls and Lobster Rolls: A Guide to Idyllic Portsmouth, NH
When you conjure the image of a picturesque New England town, you’ll be hard pressed to find one more idyllic than Portsmouth, New Hampshire. It’s a seaport set alongside the Piscataqua River, and also one of the nation’s oldest cities. Portsmouth is notable for tax-free shopping, an abundance of early American historical sites, and incredible waterfront views. The allure here is completely understandable when you get acquainted with this incredibly accessible city. Sure, Portsmouth has a small town vibe, and it’s ideal to explore on foot, but it offers a tremendous number of things to see and do in its relatively small footprint.
Note: Portsmouth is a mostly seasonal destination. If you’re planning a visit any time before May or after September, some of the places listed may be closed. We recommend checking in advance to avoid disappointment.
Where to Get Coffee in Portsmouth
La Mulita Coffee
La Mulita Coffee is a coffee roaster and coffee shop in Rye, New Hampshire, just a smidge outside Portsmouth’s city limits. The affable owner, Max Pruna, hails from Medellin, Colombia. His connections to his hometown, and the business relationships with coffee growers he maintains there, inform the beans you’ll savor with each sip you take at this fantastic specialty coffee purveyor. Now, we’ve been known to go a little out of our way for exceptionally good coffee, though La Mulita really isn’t “out of the way,” given that it’s just a five minute drive from central Portsmouth.
Pro Tip: La Mulita also carries the excellent artisan bagels from Rose Foods in Portland, ME, so if you partake in glorious carbs like we do, consider this coffee option a two-fer.
Caffe Kilim
For more than 20 years, Caffe Kilim has been a unique hybrid cafe, market, and trading post that has delighted the community and tourists alike. You’ll find coffee, Turkish delicacies, and hand woven textiles, as one of the co-owners hails from Istanbul, where his grandfather ran a coffee shop.
Kaffe Vonsolln
Kaffee Vonsolln was started by a German baker. Though it has since changed ownership, it continues the tradition by offering a selection of German pastries. All the coffee varieties are roasted in-house.
Pro Tip: Next door is the famed Press Room, the longest running bar, restaurant, and live entertainment venue in downtown Portsmouth with a decades-long reputation for being one of the most important music venues and gathering spots in the Seacoast. It’s a gorgeous space, with an abundance of fantastic local artwork gracing its walls, and is certainly worth a stop.
What to See and Do in Portsmouth
Delve into the city’s history
Market Square
In the heart of Portsmouth lies Market Square, where the original New Hampshire State House was the seat of the colonial government from 1758 to 1776. The Declaration of Independence was read from the building on July 18, 1776 and George Washington spoke from its balcony in 1789. It sets the stage for the immense history held within this small city. Today, it’s the city’s bustling center, anchored by the beautiful North Church which dates back to 1855.
Portsmouth Athenaeum
Shaw Research Library at the Portsmouth Athenaeum
What is an athenaeum? Short answer: it’s a membership library established by various societies. But it’s really much more remarkable than that. In the 18th century, across America, membership libraries were created for the purpose of serving the members themselves but to also provide invaluable education resources for their larger communities. “Athenaeum”--derived from Athena, the Greek goddess of wisdom–was used by a number of such societies to describe institutions with broader aims than a humble library. These membership libraries once number in the hundred, but there are only 20 left across the country. Today, Portsmouth Athenaeum maintains a library of over 40,000 volumes, as well as manuscripts, photographs, objects, and local historical ephemera. It also sponsors exhibits, concerts, lectures, and other programs.
Pro Tip: If you love libraries as much as we do, then it’s worth making sure you time your visit well. The Shaw Research Library is stunning, but only open to the public on Tuesdays through Saturdays from 1 pm to 4 pm, excluding holidays and events.
Portsmouth Historical Society Tour
African Burying Ground Memorial on the Black Heritage Trail
To form a general perspective of the past and present, consider a Portsmouth Historical Society Tour. Departing from the Discover Portsmouth Welcome Center, the 90-minute walking tour is conducted by knowledgeable local guides. It covers prominent streets, stories, buildings, and architecture. Portsmouth has numerous historic homes, such as the Moffatt-Ladd House and the Wentworth-Gardner House. Though the tour doesn’t take you to each one, the guides are great about highlighting what’s special about each one so you can decide where to spend more time later. In addition, subject-specific tours focusing on historical figures, the LGBTQ+ community, the famous women who shaped Portsmouth, and historical preservation efforts are available. The Black Heritage Trail can be explored as a self-guided tour.
Pro Tip: Tours run May 1st through October 31st, and reservations are strongly recommended. Private tours are available outside of the daily schedule if reserved 48 hours in advance.
Strawberry Banke Museum
Lowd House at Strawberry Banke Museum dates back to 1810 and contains an exhibit on New Hampshire craftsmen and their tools
Strawberry Banke is a 10-acre outdoor historical museum. The museum resides in Portsmouth’s South End Historic District in what was once the Puddle Dock neighborhood of Portsmouth. The grounds encompass 300 years of history, and the meticulously restored furnished houses, exhibits, gardens, landscapes, and–yes–even costumed role players, present the lively stories of generations of people who lived and worked there.
Pro Tip: Tours run on a seasonal schedule from May through August.
Enjoy the amazing coastal scenery
Prescott Park
Across from Strawberry Banke lies Prescott Park, a 10-acre park along the Piscataqua River. Named after the two famous Portsmouth’s sisters who dedicated their inheritance to acquiring the land on which the park sits today, Prescott Park is perfect for a leisurely stroll. Its formal garden features Japanese Crabapple trees that are absolutely stunning at peak bloom. At the Portsmouth Love Wall, where locks are dedicated to loved ones, you get a perfect view of the World War I Memorial Bridge. If you have time for a longer walk, make your way to Peirce Island and Four Tree Island, which also happen to be great sunset viewing points.
New Hampshire Coastal Byway Routes 1A and 1B
NH Route 1A is a 18.5 mile scenic roadway that runs along the coast between Portsmouth in the north and Seabrook in the south. It’s a winding drive, with incredible ocean views, fantastic beaches, numerous local and private parks, historical structures and opulent seaside mansions to ogle as you make your way along the famed byway. Before you do that, though, make a small detour down Little Harbor Road to check out the Wentworth-Coolidge Mansion. Yet another of Portsmouth’s many historic homes, the National Historic Landmark is surrounded by conservation lands. Consider making time for the 1.5-mile Little Harbor Trail, easily identified with markers. Parking is free at the mansion, but available on a first-come-first-served basis.
NH Route 1B, like the aforementioned 1A, is the shorter, secondary loop in northeastern New Hampshire. Just shy of 5 miles long, 1B’s northern entry point is Portsmouth before it crosses over the Piscataqua River and cycles through the islands, eventually meeting back up with 1A just south of Sagamore Creek. Though there’s plenty to explore on this route like the Fort Constitution Historic Site and Great Island Common, the highlight of this sojourn is Wentworth by the Sea. The historic landmark is one of the last remaining grand resort hotels along New Hampshire’s coast. Tracing all the way back to its debut in 1874 as “Wentworth Hall'', the stately resort was renovated back in 2003 and now offers a modern, elegant style and convenience while retaining its traditional grandeur. It’s the perfect spot to grab a meal or drink, whether at the hotel’s kitchen and bar or the waterfront restaurant with harbor views.
Pro Tip: Though technically located in Kittery, Maine, the Nubble Lighthouse is less than 30 minutes away via I-95 or the 1A coastal route. The beautiful spot offers additional stunning coastal views, and, more importantly, Maine blueberry pie!
Discover unique local gems
Portsmouth Book & Bar
When Justin wears his Book & Bar t-shirt, people actually stop him to ask where it’s located. It’s such a simple, yet appealing, concept. Portsmouth Book & Bar wears many hats–it’s a bookstore, a cafe, a bar, and a music venue. But at its heart, it's a gathering place where people who love books go to find their brethren. Grab a best-seller or an old favorite off the shelf, take a seat inside or out on the patio, sink quietly into the pages or chat up some of the locals. It’s that kind of place.
Museum of Dumb Guy Stuff
The Museum of Dumb Guy Stuff is the answer to a question faced by many upon retirement: Now what? Most find a second act or quiet hobby to focus on. In this case, two retirees turned one’s walkout basement man cave into a shrine to model kits, action figures and various toy collectibles (sometimes re-purposed), complete with thematic tableaus and large-scale dioramas. As nerdy and bizarre as that may seem, the passion and attention to detail is inarguably impressive and worthy of a quick visit.
The Music Hall
With theaters across the country closing and falling into disrepair, the Music Hall has managed to defy all odds and remain Portsmouth's crown jewel. If you’re lucky enough to catch a movie or a performance here, you’ll do it in a gorgeous theater featuring original hardwood floors, a dramatic horseshoe balcony, and an ornate ceiling. But the Music Hall’s intriguing other-worldly design begins in its lobby and continues into its bathrooms. It has to be seen to be believed, so don’t miss this gem.
Where to Eat in Portsmouth
Lobster Rolls
Beach Plum
Does Portsmouth have a diverse culinary scene? Yes. Did we stuff our faces with lobster roll after lobster roll? Also yes. Beach Plum is an outstanding option, with a cute seafood shack just across the North Hampton Beach on Route 1A. However, we’ve been known to also stop by the location on Lafayette, since they also offer fried seafood platters in addition to lobster rolls (sorry, not sorry).
Geno’s Chowder & Sandwich Shop
Geno’s offers spectacular waterfront views with your meal, and on a warm day, it’s pretty hard to beat. The 60-year old structure oozes New England charm, but is rather petite so we recommend making a reservation. They offer several chowders and stews, all made from scratch, so take them up on their offer for samples and pick a favorite.
Sanders Fish Market
Sanders Fish Market is a less conventional destination for lobster rolls, but we’ve had fantastic experiences at seafood markets on our travels, like at Blount Clam Shack & Market in Providence, and Southold Fish Market in North Fork. You simply can’t beat the freshness of the seafood. The Sanders Fish Market lobster roll is also a worthy candidate due to its unique roll: the lobster comes on a bulkie roll, a distinctly New England-style sandwich bun.
Creative Casual Dining
Elephantine Bakery
For dishes with a Mediterranean twist, check out the Elephantine Bakery, located in a charming alley of Penhallow Street. Pastries sell out quickly, so get there before noon if you want to sample the delicious offerings.
Popovers on the Square
If you haven’t had a chance to try a popover, then it’s time to cross that off your culinary bucket list at Popovers on the Square. There is an extensive menu displaying creative use of popovers (Chicken Pot Pie in a Popover, anyone?), but it’s also a great place to stop for a quick carb injection. Whether you’re looking for something to pair with your coffee, or just a decadent midday treat, grab a seat and watch the foot traffic go by.
Sweet Treats
Red Rover Creamery
Red Rover Creamery offers small-batch, artisanal ice creams and organic baked goods using locally grown and sustainably farmed ingredients. It’s named for a clipper ship, built in 1852, that sailed trade goods between New York and San Francisco. The name indirectly references the owners, Eric and Sarah Amsden. Eric is a New York native and Sarah grew up in San Francisco. Red Rover Creamery is the perfect stop for a little something decadent–a warm chocolate chip cookie or a cup of ice cream in one of their traditional or more creative flavors.
Pro Tip: Red Rover Creamery converts into a seasonal pop-up, with limited hours, once or twice a month (usually in relation to a holiday) during the off-season from November through May. Also, if you happen to be a street art fan, you’ll find fantastic murals by German duo herakut on the shop’s external walls.
Fezziwig’s Food & Fountain
Fezziwig’s Food & Fountain offers a taste of whimsy on State Street. The parlor features shelves stocked with cookbooks, packaged baked goods and random knick-knacks, while servers bustle around costumed in period clothing. Afternoon tea is a fun option, or simply stop in for a decadent shake.
Byrne & Carlson
If you’re not quite ready for dessert, but would like to indulge your sweet tooth, Portsmouth is home to excellent confection makers that, in our dessert-obsessed estimation, are a must-visit. The nearly walk-in closet sized Byrne & Carlson Chocolatier has a classic and elegant feel to it. They make small batches of artisanal chocolates and confections with the finest ingredients. Especially of note are their decadent, chocolate-covered sea salt caramels, which are simply divine.
Conclusion
At first sight, Portsmouth seems like a small, coastal town that checks off all the boxes for those looking for a New England experience. But Portsmouth has deep roots, and the longer you’re there, the more layers you get to peel back. It’s a simple exchange: offer Portsmouth your time, and it’ll offer you a rich and rewarding experience in return.
