Why You Shouldn’t Wait Till October to Visit Salem, MA
Normally, when you think of Salem, Massachusetts, you think of Halloween. The two historical pillars driving the robust tourism industry of this quintessential New England town are its connections to the early days of the republic and the events of the Witch Trials, though largely the focus goes to the latter. The Witch Trials drew a straight line from Salem to the occult to Halloween, and so it became a celebrated seasonal destination. Unfortunately, that myopic view significantly and unfairly narrows the breadth of what this charming destination has to offer. These fun things to see, do and eat are why you shouldn’t wait till October to visit Salem.
Where to get coffee in Salem
Brew Box
Brew Box is a petite coffee shop located across the street from the Salem Visitor Center, which makes it the perfect spot to start your day. Using beans from Tandem Coffee Roasters out of Maine, the skilled baristas whip up Americanos and Cappuccinos upon request. But as we scoured the menu, the Cereal Milk Latte jumped off the page. It is precisely as it sounds: cereal is steeped in milk, then combined with a shot of espresso. It’s really the only specialty drink Brew Box offers, but it’s earned them some notoriety. Don’t be fooled into thinking this is a “trendy” drink. It’s delicious, and lives up to the hype.
Odd Meter Coffee
Odd Meter Coffee is one of those places where you feel less like you’re buying a cup of coffee and more like you’re contributing to a larger movement. Odd Meter’s owners see their coffee shop as a way to inject positivity into the world. In practical terms, this means that their (disturbingly cute!) coffee cups are environmentally friendly and their staff earn a living wage. Coffee aficionados might appreciate that they use George Howell Coffee beans and Crescent Ridge dairy, both high-quality products out of Massachusetts. But for everyone else, all you need to know is that the baristas aren't going to roll their eyes if you want a latte with “a little less milk”. In fact, they just might remember your name and offer you restaurant recommendations. Like we said, it’s more than just coffee.
What to see and do in Salem
Take a ride on the Salem Trolley
The Salem Trolley leaves from the Salem Visitor Center beginning at 10:00 am, and the outings last approximately an hour. Salem has enough fascinating history (and eccentric residents!) to keep you entertained for far longer than an hour, so think of the trolley ride as a trail of breadcrumbs to help you decide where you want to spend the rest of your time in this quirky city. Salem is extremely walkable, but the trolley also takes you to Salem’s beaches which are a more substantial trek from its center.
Pro Tip: Sit on the right side of the trolley for better views of the famous Fort Pickering lighthouse.
Visit the Peabody Essex Museum
East India Marine Hall built in 1825
The Peabody Essex Museum is the jewel of Salem’s cultural scene and a must for any art lover. The institution dates back to 1799 and is firmly rooted in Salem’s maritime history. Its beginnings read like something out of a storybook, where sea captains traversed the world, picking up items from foreign lands for a collection of curiosities back home.
Today, the museum’s permanent collection and temporary exhibits are eclectic and thoughtful, deftly weaving together its global influences with Salem’s local history. The Japanese art collection ranges from one of our favorite contemporary artists, Yoshitomo Nara, to an array of tsuba -- sword guards installed between the hilt and the blade to protect a fighter’s hands during hand-to-hand combat. Yin Yu Tang is a 200-year-old ancestral home of a Chinese merchant, which was brought to America and re-erected at the Peabody Essex Museum. Salem Stories delves into the city’s remarkable residents and history.
Pro Tip: Yin Yu Tang requires a separate reservation and admission fee, so plan accordingly since you won’t want to miss it.
Celebrate architecture at the McIntire Historic District
Nathaniel Hawthorne’s home from 1846-49 while working as surveyor at the Salem Custom House
Influential architect and woodcarver Samuel McIntire oversaw some of the most critical periods of growth in Salem’s history, and he left an indelible mark on this city’s landscape. The McIntire Historic District features a variety of architectural styles, and an easy one-mile self-guided tour highlights some of Salem’s most impressive homes. Look for little plaques which tell you the year a property was built and who it was built for, helping to turn each home into a story.
Enjoy a history lesson at the Salem Witch Museum
Although the Salem Witch Museum might feel like a stop more appropriate for a Halloween-themed visit, it’s important to recognize the Salem Witch Trials as a crucial part of not just Salem history, but US history as well. The Salem Witch Museum does a fantastic job of spending equal parts recounting the event and analyzing it. Casting a light on an undeniable pattern of scapegoating through the years, the experience is still timely and eye opening. More educational than eerie, it’s a worthwhile year-round stop.
Before you step in, take a moment to appreciate the impressive Gothic Revival building that houses the museum. Built between 1844 and 1846, the structure was originally home to the Second Unitarian Church of Salem and the Salem Auto Museum. It was converted to the Salem Witch Museum in 1972.
Explore the House of the Seven Gables
At the House of Seven Gables, one of the many structures on the museum grounds is, indeed, the famed house with seven two-sided rooftops that became the namesake of Nathaniel Hawthorne’s beloved novel. But the grounds offer so much more to discover. The house obscures an incredible garden, with a wide variety of flora such as roses and heavenly-scented wisteria, that terminates at the rocky shoreline. From there, you can gaze out upon picturesque Salem Harbor, Derby Wharf and its iconic lighthouse, then on to Salem Sound, and still further afield the wider Atlantic Ocean. In addition, there are a number of other structures, including The Counting House and Hawthorne’s Birthplace, which were preserved by relocating these endangered structures from many blocks away.
Another interesting role the property plays in Salem’s storied history is its contribution to integrating new immigrants, who were largely Polish in the early 1900s, to the area. The House of Seven Gables offered English and citizenship classes, after-school programs and more. Inclusivity via Immigration reform is still a considerable part of the organization’s mission today. The museum can be explored with a self-guided tour by purchasing a grounds pass or a semi-private guided tour, which includes the interiors of some of the structures.
Try old fashioned candies at Ye Olde Pepper Companie
In some of the best candy shops in New York City, you may find classic sweets that were popular when your parents were coming of age. But at Ye Olde Pepper Companie, in addition to a variety of chocolates, fudge and taffy, you’ll find candies that were popular 200 years ago! Dating back to 1806, its two signature candies are still a popular draw at their delightful store across from the House of Seven Gables. Gibralters are half ounce blocks of lemon or mint flavored hard candy you break into pieces, then allow to slowly dissolve on your tongue. (Caution: Break the candy on a hard surface and not with your teeth!) The mouthfeel is unique, and the flavors are refreshingly uncomplicated. Blackjacks are hard molasses straws marketed as the masculine alternative to the already popular Gibralters. According to their packaging, Blackjacks are “healthful and delicious”. While we cannot attest to the former, we can definitely attest to the latter.
Discover incredible street art with the Punto Urban Art Museum
El Punto, or The Point, is a historic neighborhood in Salem. In 2013, a multi-year revitalization project commenced, and one of its many efforts included using street art to breathe new life into the area. Even in our many years chasing street art in NYC and beyond, we’ve rarely seen such an impressive mix of international and local artists, or such a brilliant use of space. Salem’s Punto Urban Art Museum is a fantastic community effort, and this mural map takes you on an easy walking tour of the neighborhood.
Celebrate unconventional art at Herb Mackey’s Sculpture Yard
When you first approach Herb Mackey’s Sculpture Yard, it’s perfectly normal to feel like your eyes don’t know where to focus. A sign above the door reads “Thomas Mackey and Sons, 1904”, which is the name of Mackey’s business as a general contractor. But there's nothing general about the scrap metal sculptures and accessories that fill the yard, climb the walls, decorate the fences and fortify the gate. Each piece has been salvaged and repurposed to create an army of castoffs, only as an artist could imagine it.
Enjoy the outdoors at Salem Willows Park
For locals, few things are spoken of as highly or with as much nostalgia as Salem Willows Park. A tourist destination dating back to the 1800s, Salem Willows Park has long been a popular recreational space. It was once home to Restaurant Row, where locals enjoyed "shore dinners” of fried fish, lobster and chowder. At different points in time, there was also a merry-go-round, a small tilt-a-whirl roller coaster, a helicopter ride and a miniature train for visitors to enjoy. Salem Willows has also played a central role in many civic events such as the annual Black Picnic held on the third Saturday of July, which started as a humble gathering of 26 slaves who met in 1741 for a quiet celebration on their day off.
Today, the arcade, popcorn stand and clam shack continue to offer good, old-fashioned, family-friendly fun. And if you’re the adventurous sort, the chop suey sandwich from Salem Lowe is somewhat of a local legend. The regional specialty of roast pork or chicken, onions, celery and bean sprouts cooked in a thickened soy gravy and served on a hamburger bun dates back to the 1940s.
Where to eat in Salem
Ledger Restaurant
Chef-owner Matt O'Neil made a name for himself by winning Boston Magazine’s Battle of the Burger three years in a row. But when it came to open Ledger, he partnered with A Voce and Bouley New York alum Daniel Gursha to feature New England fare. Housed in the beautiful 1818 Salem Savings Bank building, the ambiance and the food both contribute to the outstanding dining experience. There are remnants of the luxurious space’s prior life, like a divider wall built from safety deposit boxes and a restored plaster ceiling from which a stunning chandelier now hangs. There’s a doughnut of the day, which is served first, almost like an appetizer. We can't think of a better way to start a meal.
The Roof at Hotel Salem
The tagline for The Roof at Hotel Salem--perhaps the most accurate we’ve ever encountered--is “Strong Drinks, Simple Food”. The drinks are, indeed, strong and the fare--tacos, burritos, and giant bowls of guac--is simple. The bright, clean, modern design instantly puts you in holiday mode. But at the end of the day, the draw here is the rooftop and its expansive views. The Roof is Salem’s only open-air rooftop bar and restaurant, and it overlooks Salem’s charming Old Town Hall and cobblestone streets. You can even see the bustling harbor. It’s a great place to relax and take in the sunset.
Pro Tip: Reserve your seats ahead of time, as wait times at this popular spot could extend to over an hour.
Goodnight Fatty
“You know what sounds good right now?” We’ve said these exact words a million times late in the evening after dinner and the answer has been any number of things, from cake to pie to cookies. Luckily, we live somewhere we can easily fulfill that craving. The story of Goodnight Fatty’s humble beginnings are the same, except founders Erik Sayce and Jennifer Pullen weren't as fortunate and decided to do something about it.
And so were born “fatties” which are what they call their rather substantial late night cookie offerings they began selling in late night pop-ups at local coffee shops and breweries. This led to a permanent weekend brick-and-mortar location Friday through Sunday at the Andrew-Safford Carriage House across from Salem Common. Every weekend, a rotating option of three cookies are on offer and are served with milk or vegan soft serve ice cream. Even a vegan cookie is available the first weekend of each month. On Sundays, they also offer “chubbies”, which are their breakfast pockets filled with egg, potatoes, cheese, and other delicious stuffings.
Kokeshi
We’ll come straight out and confess that we didn’t know what to expect from Kokeshi. Kokeshi currently shares a home with sister restaurant and Italian joint, Bambolina, which seemed to strike a slightly discordant note. And “Asian Street Food'' is such a broad term that we couldn’t really gauge where the inspiration was coming from. But we were pleased to find a succinct menu with a commitment to hearty Asian fare. The poke was refreshing on a warm afternoon, and the expertly fried chicken sandwich, with its many delicious toppings, really hit the spot. We were pleasantly surprised, and we think you will be too.
Where to stay in Salem
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Hampton Inn Salem Boston
The Hampton Inn Salem Boston is all about convenience. It’s centrally located with secured and covered on-site parking available. It’s walking distance from many of our favorite attractions, such as the Salem Witch Museum, Peabody Essex Museum, and the House of the Seven Gables. Additionally, you’re near the El Punto neighborhood, so you can explore the open air street art museum at your leisure. And, of course, you won’t go hungry being a short distance from Washington Street where many of Salem’s excellent restaurants are found.
Hampton Inn is part of the Hilton family, which partnered with industry leaders to institute the CleanStay program across its properties. It employs rigorous hygiene practices and safety protocols to ensure maximum peace of mind.
Cabot Lodge
Cabot Lodge isn’t quite as centrally located, but it still offers convenience, as well some as additional amenities. The recently renovated property is a modern, efficient hotel just 6 miles from downtown Salem in Beverly, MA. The rooms are small, but it mixes a cozy vibe with a high-tech, contactless experience. You're notified via email or text that your room is ready. Then you simply download an app, which acts as your virtual key during your stay.
Downtown Beverly is a pleasant, walkable city with loads of charm to spare. It’s a worthy detour during your visit to Salem, offering a less touristy experience and allowing for carefree exploration of its quaint shops and inviting restaurants and bars.
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Conclusion
Make no mistake, October in Salem is fantastic. It offers unique experiences that are only available during that particular time of year. And we’re not discouraging you from visiting if Halloween’s your jam. But Salem is definitely more than just a seasonal destination. Take advantage of sparse crowds, easy to obtain reservations, and lower costs. Check out everything Salem has to offer the rest of the year.
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