Small Town, Big Heart: Why Ithaca Should Be Part of Your Finger Lakes Getaway
Our memories are notoriously unreliable. Sometimes they leave us with unjustifiably positive or negative feelings about a place, but sometimes they just leave us with more questions. A long time ago, Lynn visited Ithaca with her father to check out Cornell University. She ended up going to school elsewhere, but has always wanted to return. Perhaps part of her has always wondered what her life there might have looked like. Truth be told, after several months of staying put, we didn’t really need much of an excuse. Ithaca seemed like the perfect escape.
Where is Ithaca?
Ithaca is located at the southern base of Cayuga Lake, the longest of New York’s eleven Finger Lakes. It has unique geological features, which can be attributed to glaciers freezing and thawing over time to form its many gorges. Juxtapose that landscape with the fact that Ithaca is home to both Cornell University and Ithaca College, and you’ve got a truly special destination. As we discovered in Providence, Rhode Island, college towns cultivate an environment that embraces diversity and fosters a youthful sense of creativity and innovation. Ithaca makes no apologies for what is on the surface a seemingly paradoxical ethos: being something timeless and yet also something novel.
Best Coffee Shops in Ithaca
There are many benefits to getting an early start when exploring a new locale. But in order to do that, we usually need a little help. When seeking out that jolt of caffeine, we lean on local coffee shops and roasters as much as possible. Ithaca delivered on the coffee front, and these are the local names you should know.
Ithaca Coffee Co.
Gimme! Coffee wasn’t new to us. They were one of the early trailblazers of third-wave coffee, and once had outposts in both Manhattan and Brooklyn (both permanently closed shortly after the start of the pandemic). They originated in Ithaca, however, and continue to serve patrons excellent espresso and coffee beverages, as well as an eclectic array of local pastries. Ithaca Coffee Co. is not a gimmick, it’s a concept. It’s a hyper local chain that’s part coffee shop, part specialty market, and part tavern. At their multiple locations, they strive to serve customers solid espresso and coffee beverages to start their day and a glass of craft beer to end it. Press Cafe is a modern, minimalist café offering expertly crafted espresso and coffee beverage from a rotating selection of local Ithaca-based and Finger Lakes region roasters.
Things to See and Do in Ithaca
There are innumerable ways in which you can choose to experience Ithaca, but its best and most unique experiences are those occurring outdoors. The landscape, and the fact that it is an eminently walkable city, is part and parcel of Ithaca’s charm. So dust off your walking shoes, dress in layers, and prepare to get some fresh air.
Go on a waterfall crawl
Taughannock Falls
Taughannock Falls Gorge Trail
Boasting 150 waterfalls within 10 square miles, Ithaca makes a true waterfall crawl possible. Regardless of how much time and effort you’re able to invest, you’ll manage to visit some magnificent waterfalls. Ithaca Falls is located at the very bottom of the effort scale, as you can simply drive right up to Lake Street bridge for an unobstructed view. But a short walk from the bridge (less than 5 minutes!) gets you up close and personal to its beautiful cascades. Fall Creek runs through Ithaca, even serving as a drinking water and hydroelectric power source for Cornell University. Easy trails and pedestrian suspension bridges allow you to take in scenic views of five additional waterfalls along the creek, such as Horseshoe Falls, Forest Falls and Triphammer Falls. (Justin enjoyed the view FROM the suspension bridges, Lynn enjoyed the view OF the suspension bridges from a safe distance.)
For a waterfall surrounded by a scenic vista, Taughannock Falls is hard to beat. The Gorge Trail is just shy of a mile in each direction and runs right along the creek. The terrain is fairly flat with awe-inspiring upward views of the gorge. The longer South and North Rim Trails are more challenging but offer impressive elevated views. Buttermilk Falls State Park offers five different trails with varying levels of difficulty and a variety of landscapes.
Pro Tip: While Ithaca’s gorges are beautiful, they can be dangerous too. Some trails may be closed due to weather conditions or lack of adequate space for social distancing, so always obey the signs. Stay on marked trails, and beware falling rocks or strong undercurrents. Take some time to review Cornell’s helpful gorge safety video and brochure in advance.
Take a self-guided historical architecture walking tour
William Henry Miller Inn
First Baptist Church
Even if you’re not an architecture aficionado, wandering around Ithaca will make you feel like one. With signs highlighting structures of historical significance, you’ll find yourself on a DIY walking tour in no time.
It won’t take long for you to recognize the work of prolific local architect William Henry Miller, who attended Cornell University. Though he did not graduate, his portrait hangs in the school’s Uris Library, a testament to his influence. His designs include the Queen Anne-style boutique hotel which now bears his name (William Henry Miller Inn), and the Greek Revival-style Clinton House.
Other notable architectural gems include the First Baptist Church built in 1890 made of grey limestone, with its striking tower soaring high above DeWitt Park. (Fun fact: John D. Rockefeller contributed funds to its construction.) The State Theatre, an entertainment venue temporarily shuttered due to the pandemic, is a striking example of landmark preservation. Two Cornell alumni had the foresight to convert an auto garage into the theatre in 1928, and Historic Ithaca oversaw its restoration in 1998. The structure is on the National Register of Historic Places.
Visit the Herbert F. Johnson Museum of Art at sunset
The Herbert F. Johnson Museum of Art is located on Cornell University’s Arts Quad. And though it’s temporarily closed to the general public due to the pandemic, you can still enjoy one of its main attractions: the building itself. It was constructed in 1973 and designed by renowned Chinese American architect I.M. Pei, whose masterpieces include the Louvre Pyramid and the JFK Library. And though the concrete rectangular building may seem modest in comparison to other statement structures, it is a masterful use of negative space.
But the key to visiting at sundown is twofold. First and foremost, Cornell’s Libe Slope is the perfect locale to watch the sunset. As you take in the view, you might hear music ring out from McGraw Clock Tower. Student and alumni chimemasters play 21 bells that make up the Cornell Chimes, a university musical tradition dating back to 1868. The chimes not only mark the hours, they also play scheduled concerts daily during the school year. And once dusk sets in, you can catch Leo Villareal’s outdoor art installation, where lights dance across the museum’s 45 x 68 foot ceiling. Made up of 12,000 energy-efficient LEDs, Cosmos is an homage to Carl Sagan, who taught astronomy at the school.
Explore the local flora and fauna
Lewis Building at Cornell Botanic Gardens
While many Finger Lakes destinations may boast lush outdoor landscapes, Ithaca offers a uniquely accessible way to explore them by way of Cornell’s rich educational resources. The Cornell Botanic Gardens is open daily from dawn to dusk, and is completely free of charge. Curated gardens like the herb garden and winter garden are a joy to walk through, while plant tags and audio tour guides provide thorough details about soil erosion, sustainability efforts, and more. Benches are strategically located throughout the garden to offer scenic views, allowing for moments of rest and introspection. Sculptures and artwork blend art and nature seamlessly.
Another amazing free resource is the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, where research, education and conservation efforts extend well beyond the study of birds. The lab is located in the Sapsucker Woods Sanctuary, and four miles of trails are open to the public from dawn to dusk. Although most of our bird education has come from hunting down street art through the Audubon Mural Project, the Cornell Lab makes it incredibly easy to explore on your own. They provide seasonal trail guides with pictures of birds you’re likely to encounter so that even amateur birdies (like ourselves!) can have a satisfying experience. Trail maps are located on the grounds, or can be downloaded in advance from their website.
Discover the incredible outdoor street art gallery
Red-tailed Hawk mural by Ryan Christenson
Portrait of Ezra Cornell by Nestor Maladengoitia
Cities with great street art have one thing in common: a core belief that art belongs to the masses. In Ithaca, the growth of street art has been a thoughtful, deliberate grassroots movement spanning decades. Ithaca Murals has been central to that movement, engaging with the city’s local committees, merchants and organizations.
A user-friendly map takes all the guesswork out of finding the hundreds of street art pieces in Ithaca. Some of our favorite pieces include the imposing hawk by Connecticut artist Ryan Christenson (aka Arcy) near Press Bay Alley, and the portrait of Ezra Cornell by Peruvian artist Nestor Maladengoitia at the Tompkins County Public Library. The network of artists and organizers also hope to create awareness and shift perspectives through public art. Portals to Peace by Lachlan Chambliss promotes inclusion by celebrating Muslims in the community, while the mural of Black-Eyed Susans by Kellie Cox facilitates discussions about native plant conservation.
In addition to the intricate murals, Ithaca has a matrix of decorated electrical boxes, thanks to the 21 Box Exhibit initiated in 2014. And because you can never have too much art, in 2017 a Community Bike Rack Design Competition resulted in 12 winning designs being brought to life and placed around downtown Ithaca. It’s truly an embarrassment of riches.
Best Places to Eat in Ithaca
At the heart of it, Ithaca is a college town. What that means as far as its dining scene is concerned is you’ll have a bevy of options to choose from, and those options will be accessible and unstuffy.
Mushroom and Oaxaca Hand Pie from Mama Said Hand Pies
At the top of our list of recommendations lies Mama Said Hand Pies, a bakery located in trendy Press Bay Alley. The husband-and-wife team grew their business out of a stall at Ithaca Farmers Market, where they continue to source their ingredients. Could we have been slightly influenced by the fact that Gabe grew up in Queens, and that Hiroko’s education took her all over the world? Perhaps that got us in the door. But once there, we were impressed by the variety of fillings (including vegan options) and the perfectly browned crusts of the hand pies, so much so that we doubled our original order. We were just going to sample them, we said. Then we ravaged that box of hand pies in the parking lot until not a single crumb remained.
Moosewood isn’t just a pioneer in vegetarian and vegan cooking, they’ve also been operating as a collective for several decades. The team owns and operates the restaurant, and frankly, the pride of ownership shows. And for something sweet, local small-batch ice cream maker Purity offers the look and feel of an old-time parlor.
Vegan Banh Mi sandwich from Gorgers restaurant
Gorgers has likely fueled many a late-night cram session, but it would be a mistake to cast it off simply as college fare. The menu is surprisingly eclectic, featuring options like the Sweet Thai Chili chicken sandwich with grilled pineapple and onions, and the Shrimp Po’Boy. They are known for making vegan substitutions upon request, and the Vegan Banh Mi sandwich made with fried eggplant was truly a delight.
Where to Stay in Ithaca
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There are three things we normally consider when it comes to lodgings: value, an advantageous location, and unique vibe. Luckily, Ithaca offers a spectrum of desirable accommodations to meet even the most wayward traveler’s needs. Our two recommendations are vastly different, yet check off everything on our list.
With Taughannock Falls State Park as your backyard and sweeping views of Cayuga Lake, the Inn at Taughannock Falls is the obvious choice. The Victorian home was built in 1873, and its Old World charm has been carefully preserved. It is located just 7 miles from central Ithaca, and onsite parking is available at each of the guest houses.
If you’d prefer to take advantage of Ithaca’s walkable downtown area, then Canopy by Hilton Downtown puts you right in the heart of the action. The contemporary, yet casual, property has spacious rooms and a keenly local focus, including complimentary bikes to explore nearby. Paid parking is offsite only at a city garage two blocks away, which the hotel does not discount or validate.
Conclusion
For Lynn, Ithaca offered a new adventure with a pinch of nostalgia. As she watched the sunset from the top of Libe Slope, she couldn’t help but recall her visit from many years ago with a touch of fondness. But Ithaca was completely new to Justin, and he found its many charms equally as impossible to resist. So whether you’ve never heard of Ithaca, are already its biggest fan, or find yourself somewhere in between, we think you’ll find it’s a great town to visit when you’re in the Finger Lakes.
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