Jalatlaco Street Art: A Visual Journey Through Oaxaca’s Rich Culture
Oaxaca is a region brimming with vibrant traditions, thanks to its deep indigenous roots and Spanish colonial influence. Known for its rich tapestry of festivals, artisanal craftsmanship, and spiritual customs, Oaxaca has become a popular destination for those seeking a connection to Mexico’s rich heritage. I think street art offers a form of cultural immersion that is often overlooked, and never more so than in Oaxaca’s Jalatlaco neighborhood. This guide is a journey through the many cultural references and stories being told through graffiti and murals, and their history and significance.
About Barrio de Jalatlaco
Oaxaca’s mountainous terrain resulted in individual towns and tribal groups surviving in isolation for long periods of time. This allowed them to maintain their individual language, customs, and ancestral traditions, making Oaxaca the most ethnically complex state in Mexico. The Zapotec ethnic group remains the largest indigenous group of Oaxaca, and many symbols of their culture are featured in the street art.
Barrio de Jalatlaco is a charming and vibrant neighborhood just east of Oaxaca’s busy city center with colorful architecture, a thriving art scene, and a strong sense of community. This historical district, once a Zapotec village, is a comfortable 15-minute walk from the main attractions, and is now a trendy area where you can easily spend all or part of your day.
A Cultural Guide to Jalatlaco Street Art
Día de los Muertos
Día de los Muertos, or Day of the Dead, is one of Mexico’s most cherished and profound traditions. It is celebrated with exuberance in Oaxaca, and much of the street art in Barrio de Jalatlaco captures the same spirit. This annual festival, which takes place from October 31 to November 2, is a colorful and joyful celebration that honors the lives of deceased loved ones, welcoming their spirits back to the world of the living for a brief reunion. Rooted in the belief that death is not an end but a continuation of the soul's journey, Día de los Muertos blends pre-Hispanic Mesoamerican traditions with Catholic practices introduced by Spanish colonists. The elaborate murals that adorn the walls of businesses and homes in Jalatlaco feature various skulls and skeletons, but there are other details within the tradition that carry a lot of meaning.
Cempasúchil or Marigold Flowers
Artist's Instagram: @bouleroaxaca
Artist's Instagram: @mr.dee_455
During Día de los Muertos, cempasúchil flowers are used in abundance to decorate ofrendas, which are altars constructed in homes and cemeteries. These altars are adorned with a variety of offerings such as food, drinks, candles, photographs, and personal items of the deceased. The cempasúchil, however, is considered one of the most essential components. The cempasúchil, also known as the Mexican marigold, serves as a bridge between the world of the living and the dead. Its striking color and potent fragrance are believed to guide the souls of the deceased back to their families during the sacred celebrations, helping them find their way to the altars and offerings prepared in their honor.
Papel Picado
One of the most visually striking elements of Oaxacan celebrations, particularly during Día de los Muertos, is papel picado. This delicate art form, which translates to “perforated paper,” has become an essential part of Mexican festivals, adding beauty and meaning to everything from personal milestones to communal gatherings. They often feature images that reflect the themes of life, death, and nature.
The colors of the papel picado can carry symbolic meanings. Bright colors like pink, purple, yellow, and green are traditionally used to celebrate life and happiness, while darker colors like black and purple are reserved for mourning and reflection. The combination of these hues creates a visual reminder of the balance between life and death, a central theme of Día de los Muertos and Oaxacan culture as a whole. It is believed that the lightness of the paper allows the spirits to pass through easily, while the perforations in the designs symbolize the thin veil between the living and the dead. When hung above ofrendas, it invites the spirits to come and partake in the offerings of food, drink, and mementos prepared by their families. As it moves gently in the air, it reflects the idea that the presence of the deceased is all around, even if it is not always seen.
The Hummingbird
In an old Aztec legend, the hummingbird and the cempasúchil represent a pair of lovers separated by death and reunited in those forms. Today, many Mesoamerican cultures still believe that when marigolds are present, hummingbirds are nearby. Hummingbirds are seen as messengers between the living and the dead, carrying messages of love and hope. Just as it flits between flowers, collecting nectar in a momentary visit before flying off, the hummingbird is thought to represent the brief yet meaningful return of the souls of the departed. Its quick movements and ability to hover in place make it a perfect metaphor for the spiritual belief that, during this time, the dead can pause their eternal journey to reconnect with their loved ones.
Xoloitzcuintli, the Mexican Hairless Dog
Among Oaxaca’s many cultural symbols, the Xoloitzcuintli, or Mexican Hairless Dog, holds a special place. Known as Xolo for short, this ancient breed has been a companion to humans for over 3,000 years, tracing its origins back to the Aztec and Zapotec civilizations. According to Mesoamerican mythology, Xolo dogs were tasked with guiding the souls of the dead through the underworld, or Mictlán, safely toward their final resting place. The belief was so strong that ancient Aztecs and Zapotecs would often bury their loved ones with a Xolo, either a live companion or a ceramic representation, to ensure they had a faithful guide in the afterlife. During the Day of the Dead festival, Xolo figures are sometimes included in ofrendas as a tribute to their ancient role as soul guardians.
La Calavera Catrina
One of the most recognizable symbols of Mexico’s Day of the Dead is La Calavera Catrina, the iconic skeletal figure dressed in fine clothes and a wide-brimmed hat. While she may seem like a playful or whimsical character, La Catrina is a complex figure that is rife with cultural context, and has been subject to numerous individual interpretations. La Catrina was originally created by José Guadalupe Posada, a Mexican printmaker and satirist, in the early 20th century. Originally named La Calavera Garbancera, the skeletal figure was meant to poke fun at indigenous people who tried to adopt European customs, especially those who wanted to appear wealthier or more "civilized."
It wasn’t until the famous muralist Diego Rivera included her in his mural Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Central in 1947, renaming her “La Catrina,” that she became a national icon. The mural is preserved in the Diego Rivera Museum in Mexico City’s Centro Histórico. Since then, she has come to represent both the inevitability of death and the futility of wealth in the face of mortality.
The Jaguar
The jaguar, a fearsome and majestic predator, holds a profound significance in Mesoamerican culture. It is often seen as a symbol of power, strength, and even divinity. In Maya culture, the jaguar god, known as Balam, was believed to rule over the night sky and the underworld. In Tikal, one of the major sites of Maya civilization, the Temple of the Great Jaguar is just one of the numerous references to the majestic feline. During a visit to Monte Albán, my tour guide shared an interesting twist: the Zapotecs believe they descended from the clouds on ropes and became jaguars. It’s common to find jaguar motifs and imagery all around Oaxaca, as well as in Jalatlaco’s street art.
The Ball Game
Artist's Instagram: @jesus.kobe1
One of the highlights at Monte Albán is the Juego de Pelota, or Ball Court, which is another feature that is shared between different pre-Hispanic civilizations. The ball game didn’t simply serve as entertainment, but also carried a ritualistic component. The movement of the ball is believed to have represented the path of the sacred heavenly bodies, and the prize bestowed upon the winner of the game was support and protection by the gods. Outside a fitness center near Oaxaca’s El Llano Park, a colorful mural pays homage to the ancient sport.
La Calenda
Next to Día de los Muertos, one of Oaxaca’s biggest celebrations is the Guelaguetza. Named after the Zapotec word meaning "to share," the annual event brings delegations from various regions of Oaxaca together to perform traditional dances, music, and rituals. These performances often include colorful costumes, intricate choreography, and the use of traditional instruments. But there are also numerous local events, such as patron saint festivals and agricultural rituals, that bring people together for la calenda, or a celebratory procession, throughout the year. These events have roots in ancient ceremonies in honor of the Zapotec gods for abundance and harvest.
Alebrijes
Oaxaca is a land of vibrant art and creativity, and few symbols capture the region’s boundless imagination better than alebrijes—colorful, fantastical creatures that have become iconic in Mexican folk art. The whimsical animals with mismatched body parts like wings, horns, claws, and tails, came to Pedro Linares, a Mexico City artist, in a dream when he was gravely ill. After recovering, Linares began crafting these creatures from papier-mâché, bringing his visions to life.
In Oaxaca, talented artisans, especially in the towns of San Antonio Arrazola and San Martín Tilcajete, carve alebrijes from copal wood, a native tree. Oaxacan alebrijes are known for their bright, eye-popping colors and meticulous patterns, often incorporating symbols of nature, mythology, and spirituality. In some indigenous communities, alebrijes are seen as spiritual guides or protective spirits.
Other things to do in Barrio de Jalatlaco
Sample Jalatlaco’s best restaurants
Jalatlaco has an enviable number of restaurants, bars and cafes to choose from, so make sure you arrive ready to partake. If you’re a bread lover, the uber popular artisanal bakery Boulenc has an outpost on 5 de Mayo where you can happily descend into a carb coma. Santa Hierba is a trendy eatery that caters to many dietary restrictions, but their smoothies are a perennial favorite. For an immersive experience combining top-notch cuisine with chic surroundings, consider a visit to Intercambio Terraza, a rooftop restaurant in the boutique Los Pilares Hotel. You’ll find handmade pastas and a nice selection of natural wines.
Take your favorite Oaxaca building home
Jaime Levin is a talented Australian artist who has found a home and a thriving career in Oaxaca. His journey began with a simple act of sketching the city's architecture during his free time while delivering sandwiches. His cheerful illustrations appealed to a wide audience locally and online, leading him to open his own gallery and shop. Once in Oaxaca is a hybrid coffee shop-gallery space, brimming with Levin’s artwork, locally sourced products, and coffee and pastries. Stop by this vibrant hub for both locals and tourists and pick up a sketch of your favorite Oaxaca building. His pieces are available as postcards, posters, or signed originals.
Make new feline friends at La Selva de los Gatos
La Selva de los Gatos, or The Forest of Cats, is a charming cat cafe that offers a unique dining experience where you can savor delicious plant-based dishes while enjoying the company of adorable feline friends. This sanctuary is home to rescued cats that roam freely across the large, garden-like space. It's a peaceful escape where visitors can interact with the cats, or simply relax and enjoy their company.
The sanctuary is run by a passionate group of volunteers who not only care for the cats but also work to raise awareness about animal welfare. Visiting La Selva de los Gatos doesn’t just allow you to spend time with its charming feline residents, but also support a worthy cause. It’s not a slick commercial enterprise, and therein lies its charm. The small daily menu is posted on a whiteboard, and there’s a fridge with some desserts. I only popped by for a drink, but thoroughly appreciated the laid-back, community-based approach.
Pro Tip: There is an entry fee of 50 pesos, but it gets credited against any food or drink purchase.
Conclusion
Though street art is ephemeral, it is an enduring art of visual storytelling. Oaxaca’s traditions, rooted in pre-Hispanic beliefs and adapted through centuries of influence, come alive in Barrio de Jalatlaco. Armed with a little bit of knowledge, you can turn a casual neighborhood stroll into an unforgettable journey that will leave a lasting impact on the imagination.
