The One Museum You Can’t Miss in Lisbon: The National Museum of Azulejo
Visits to local museums are always welcome additions to our travels, though the experiences have often run the gamut, from the awe-inspiring to the strictly pedagogical. When we decided to pay the National Museum of Azulejo in Lisbon a visit, we knew we would spend some time admiring beautiful, ornate tiles. What we didn’t know is that we would come away from the experience with a much deeper understanding of Portuguese history, art, and culture, as well as the seeds of a burgeoning obsession. Here’s why the National Museum of Azulejo absolutely deserves a spot on your Lisbon itinerary.
What is azulejo?
Azulejo (pronounced ah-zoo-lay-joo) comes from the Arabic word al-zulaich, which means polished stone. It shares the same root word as zellige, the ceramic tiles commonly found in Moroccan and Moorish architecture. What we learned from our visit to the National Museum of Azulejo is that azulejos are similar to tiles only in their most basic construction. They are ceramic works of art produced using a variety of techniques and reflecting highly skilled craftsmanship. The art of azulejos requires the combined mastery of two specialty tradesmen: the artisan responsible for the patterns, as well as the azulejador who applies them onto the intended surface.
The National Museum of Azulejo
Claustrim, or Small Cloister of the Convento de Madre Deus
The National Museum of Azulejo in Lisbon is housed in Convento de Madre Deus, a 16th century convent founded by one of Portugal’s most beloved queens, Queen Leonor. Unbeknownst to many, it is both a museum and a national monument, which introduces the idea that there is more here than meets the eye. It's a repeating theme found in azulejos, making the space central to the experience.
The magnificent Church of the Convento de Madre Deus
The Heraldic Hall at the National Palace of Sintra built by King Manuel I
The museum is organized in chronological order, but as you navigate through the space you’ll find natural detours as you explore more of the convent. There are surprises around every corner, though none quite as substantial as the one waiting for us when we entered the church. The church was built in the 16th century, but received a lavish upgrade in the 18th century at the height of the Portuguese Baroque period. It embodies the Portuguese expression ouro sobre azul, which translates into gold over blue, used to describe perfection. The gold over blue theme is one that’s repeated in many of Portugal’s most impressive spaces like the Heraldic Hall in the National Palace of Sintra.
The History of Azulejo Production in Portugal
17th century patterned azulejo panel at the National Museum of Azulejo
Azulejos were first introduced to Portugal by way of Islamic Spain, and were only produced locally in the mid-16th century. Azulejo artisans were some of the earliest accredited craftsmen, as they were required to pass an exam to enter the trade. The tradition is rooted in fellowship: artisan families were common, and many azulejos were produced using communal kilns. Even when produced locally, azulejos were still extremely expensive and commissioned only by the royal family or the church.
The earliest azulejos reflect geometric motifs common in Islamic Moorish art, inspired by stars in the vast night desert sky. As techniques developed, Portuguese azulejos began to reflect Gothic and Renaissance influences. A pattern of "borrowing" from other cultures can be seen throughout the history of azulejos, but Portuguese artisans would repurpose designs by infusing them with local significance.
Church of St Antonio in Porto
The famous blue and white patterns were inspired by the Dutch, who began to overtake the Portuguese as a prominent colonial power in the late 17th century. The blue and white designs also drew favorable comparisons to Chinese porcelain. Most Portuguese azulejos produced in the 18th century we're exclusively made with this design.
After the 1755 earthquake, a significant moment in the country’s history, azulejos were mass produced as part of the reconstruction. By the 19th century, azulejos were applied to exterior facades by wealthy families to convey status.
What Azulejos Tell Us About Portuguese Culture
Azulejo panel along a staircase at the University of Coimbra
Azulejo panel of individual figures from Church of Santa Cruz in Coimbra
Like many visitors to Portugal, we left with hundreds of photos of captivating azulejos in every size and color. While you can enjoy azulejos strictly for their beauty, we found that a deeper understanding of its history and purpose really helped us appreciate many aspects of Portuguese culture.
First and foremost, azulejos regularly combine form with function. Colors and patterns are cleverly used to highlight pathways or draw the eye in a certain direction. The Portuguese aren't obsessed with perfection, so it's not uncommon to see azulejos with errant paint drops, bleeding colors, or even the occasional stray fingerprint. Introducing an element of practicality to something so exquisite seems to capture the essence of Portuguese sensibility. At the same time, a painstaking amount of detail goes into injecting subtle commentary, or applying azulejos into tight corners. It’s a fascinating dichotomy.
Nossa Senhora da Vida at the National Museum of Azulejo
In addition, azulejos are a means to create a sensory experience and evoke an emotional response. They may create the illusion of movement and depth, or suggest something exists where it doesn't. At the National Museum of Azulejo, the Nossa Senhora da Vida (Our Lady of Life) panel features an empty space where a window used to be. The light from the window would interact with the image of the Virgin Mary on the panel, creating the illusion of the Holy Spirit's descent.
Contemporary Azulejos in Portugal Today
Contemporary azulejo art at the National Museum of Azulejo
Sao Bento Railway Station in Porto
After the mass production of azulejos in the 19th century, there was a return to the craft as a means of individual creative expression in the 20th century. Azulejos became canvases, and they were employed in a variety of art forms. Large-scale azulejo murals became popular, like the ones that adorn the Sao Bento railway station in Porto. Designed and painted by Jorge Colaço in the 1930s, they depict the history of transport in Portugal, the country's landscapes, and Portugal's defining historic moments including the Battle of Aljubarrota in 1385 and the Battle of Arcos de Valdevez in 1140. The murals are made up of over 20,000 azulejos.
Today, Lisbon's subway stations are adorned by the work of contemporary azulejos artists. Some use the medium to create modern, geometric designs, while others produce evocative landscapes and imagery. The National Museum of Azulejo has a fantastic selection of modern azulejo pieces.
Azulejo artwork by Add Fuel at Casa Pia in Lisbon
Many Portuguese street artists also integrate the use of azulejos into their work, incorporating a key element of their national heritage into their artistic identity. One of the most well-known artists to do so is Diogo Machado, who produces mixed media street art pieces under the moniker Add Fuel. His pieces combine traditional repetitive azulejo designs with freehand painted murals and can be found all over the world. We found other pieces of street art in Lisbon and Porto which employed creative uses of azulejos.
How to Get To the National Museum of Azulejo
The National Museum of Azulejo is slightly off the beaten path, approximately a 40-minute walk from Praça do Comércio. You can hop on the 794 or 759 bus instead, which will only take about 15 minutes. Uber is also commonplace in Lisbon, and will likely cost around €5 from the same starting point, so if there are two or more in your party, this might be the easy choice.
National Museum of Azulejo Hours and Ticket Prices
Disclosure: We received complimentary access to the museum through a partnership with Visit Lisboa, but all opinions featured here are strictly our own.
Shadow Invitation Figure by Lourdes Castro at the National Museum of Azulejo
The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm, with the final entry at 5:30 pm. Because uncertainty is still a factor in travel, we always recommend checking their website directly for the most updated information. Note that the museum is closed an hour for lunch, so plan your visit accordingly. Also consider downloading the MNAz app, which provides a detailed guided tour you can enjoy at your own pace.
Entry costs €5, though there are opportunities to save through ticket packages if you plan to visit other museums in Lisbon. Note that free entry to the museum is included with the Lisboa Card, which covers free travel on Lisbon’s buses, subways and trams, while also offering free or discounted entry into many popular attractions.
Conclusion
Museums aren’t for everyone. But when you find a good one, it can leave an indelible mark. The beauty of museums is that a cavernous, well-funded institution with thousands of years of antiquities can be just as enjoyable as an intimate, thoughtfully curated space. The National Museum of Azulejo is deliciously nestled somewhere in between, displaying centuries of national treasures through an engaging narrative that leaves you wanting more. Think of it as an introduction to the amazing world of azulejos that await beyond its walls.
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