“Hey, I’m a civilian. I’m not your lawyer anymore. I’m nobody’s lawyer. The fun’s over. From here on out, I’m Mr. Low Profile, just another douchebag with a job and three pairs of Dockers. If I’m lucky, a month from now – best case scenario – I’m managing a Cinnabon in Omaha.”
– Saul Goodman, “Granite State”, Breaking Bad
These simple lines, delivered with gusto by actor Bob Odenkirk in the second to last episode of Breaking Bad’s final season, were an oblique, furtive promise. Though it was technically an end, it was also a beginning. That promise was fulfilled in season one of the spinoff series, Better Call Saul. The flash-forward opening sequence — ironically shot flashback-style in black and white — was set in a Cinnabon at a nondescript mall (presumably in Omaha). And so began the long, winding journey from erstwhile small-time attorney, Jimmy McGill, to the morally dubious Saul Goodman.
To say I’m a fan of Better Call Saul is an understatement. In fact, I would argue it holds its own pitted against its predecessor. In my humble opinion, it’s only eclipsed by The Wire for one of the greatest series of all time. Over its past two seasons, I’ve spent nearly every Tuesday morning around the figurative water cooler discussing the most recent episode and theorizing future plot twists with my coworkers. So when I heard that a pop-up of Los Pollos Hermanos was coming to New York City, I pretty much had an apoplectic fit.
There are fourteen Los Pollos Hermanos branches, the most prominent being the one personally managed by owner/proprietor Gus Fring in Albuquerque. However, the chain appears to have experienced a recent growth spurt. A temporary location initially popped up in Austin during SXSW. Another one followed in LA, and this weekend a new Los Pollos Hermanos magically appeared in an IKON parking lot in the Financial District. They pared down the menu for the soft opening: we were only able to get our hands on the new curly fries. But they are guaranteed by Fring, or it’s on the house.
The mark of true success, though, is when a fast food chain goes global. Los Pollos Hermanos is heading to Australia next, so get ready Sydneysiders!
Season 3 of Better Call Saul begins tonight, April 10 on AMC.
Pair it with:
Something sweet from the Great Northern Food Hall
“Well, hello there
My it’s been a long, long time
How am I doin’?
Oh, I guess that I’m doin’ fine
It’s been so long now but it seems now
That it was only yesterday
Gee, ain’t it funny how time slips away”
– Willie Nelson
Season two of Better Call Saul opens to Billy Walker singing Willie Nelson’s Funny How Time Slips Away, and once more, with a flash-forward — toeing the line with that same black and white — to our anti-hero, Saul, languishing as a manager at the Cinnabon in Omaha. But I probably didn’t notice much of what happened, because at the beginning of that sequence, there’s a shot of a tray of slowly spinning, freshly glazed cinnamon rolls or as I like to call them: bread kryptonite.
My family has a history with cinnamon rolls. On my father’s way-too-German side, there is a secret recipe that was passed down. And they all take it very, very seriously. The few times during my childhood that they endeavored to make them, it was a big event. It was a long, arduous process, and you needed a mixture of superhuman strength and a science degree to pull it off. I always found it a bit hyperbolic, but I will unequivocally admit to the truth of the finished product: they were damn fine cinnamon rolls.
So, when considering a food pairing for this post, I immediately migrated to where I go when I have a hankering for cinnamon rolls. No, it’s not Cinnabon. I need a crispier edge, a respectable, bready chew, and a solid — less sweet, more savory — cinnamon presence. I also tend to eschew frosting. For me, simple and unadorned is the only way to go. Which is why I gravitate towards Meyers Bageri, an artisanal bakery at Great Northern Food Hall in Grand Central Terminal. Their Kanelsnurre — the Nordic iteration of a Cinnamon Roll — strikes that perfect balance.
Grand Central Terminal